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Thread: African Pyxie Frog (the biggggg ones) the set up ?

  1. #1
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    Default African Pyxie Frog (the biggggg ones) the set up ?

    I have been looking at this frog for quite sometime now. They really make me laugh. I adore them (too).

    ....But I don't know how to set them up. Substrate ? Heat ? UVB ?


    ( I hope the enigma is reading this ... )
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  2. #2
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    Its the appocolypse anglerose is asking for help!!!!!
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  3. #3
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    but you can call me, Ms. Apocalypse ...:P:P:P Angel for short ..smh ..lol
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  4. #4
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    I hope this helps so the world doesnt have to end just yet....... (they are truly awesome frogs) (female max size 10in)


    Origin
    Tropical Africa

    Temp
    80o and warmer

    Attitude
    Waits for food. Bites.

    Lighting
    Full-spectrum light

    Schedule Eats all day
    Habitat
    Likes to burrow

    Security
    Hunkers into gravel

    Foods
    Live insects, fish, worms

    Supplements
    Small Amounts

    Cleaning
    Weekly minimum

    Brood Size
    Hundreds

    Breeding
    After dry season

    -------------------------------------

    Container: Any container that holds water will work. You can keep the youngsters in a plastic "critter cage" for awhile. We recommend you keep each pyxie separate. They like frog legs as much as anybody. A covered 10-gallon tank gives about the right amount of room for a half-grown pyxie. If you give them a deep substrate, they will burrow into it and hide.

    Water: Pyxie frogs need constant access to water or they will croak (for good). Frogs absorb oxygen thru their moist skin. Frogs cannot tolerate dirty water – water with a lot of dissolved organics or dead crickets floating in it. Pyxies eat so much they pollute their water fast. Change their water often and use a water conditioner that neutralizes chlorine. A good filter makes your job easier.

    Décor: Pyxie frogs inadvertently move your decorations around, but fake plants make their habitat look better.



    Temperature: From tropical Africa, these guys need 80+. Cooler at night works fine.

    Temperament: These loafers prefer to lurk and wait for prey to pass by. They overpower their prey with their massive size and swallow it whole. Their huge mouth means they can eat very large critters – even mice. Unfortunately, they will also bite the hand that feeds them. If you insist on hand-feeding your pyxie, use tongs. Also, they tend to swallow bits of their substrate.

    Teeth? Not really teethed, pyxies grow odontodes in their powerful jaws. Not a whole lot of difference. Odontodes work just like teeth. Keep your hands away from their mouths. Your tendency to jump when suddenly bitten can make your pyxie fly across the room.

    Winters: Pyxie frogs burrow underground during the African dry season. When the rains arrive, they emerge from their burrows ready to mate. They’re less likely to hibernate in captivity. Most people feed them too much. They don't need to eat every day. They just get fatter and lazier. Really fat pyxies live shorter lives. No matter what, you won’t see many skinny pyxies.


    Foods: Pyxie frogs eat moving foods – a wide variety of foods fill the bill. As they grow, they need goldfish and mice (for their calcium content). They also like nightcrawlers which you can dust with a bit of calcium supplement.



    Supplements: An occasional dusting of their prey (crickets) with powdered calcium and vitamins suffices. Don’t over-vitaminize your pyxie frogs. If you give them the right lights and foods with skeletons, you probably don't need supplements.

    Lighting: Fast-growing pyxie frogs need full-spectrum light to prevent rickets. The ultraviolet light enables them to absorb calcium and build their bones. Like most of us, they appreciate a regular day and night schedule.

    Limit Handling: Few amphibians enjoy handling. Your hands often remove part of their skin. Most amphibian skins also give off toxins. Leave them alone as much as possible. Also, these guys bite. Wash your hands after handling them.
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  5. #5
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    Rof,lmao !! Thank You! You have been given time ...LOl

    I read all that.
    Anywaysss, like a UVA for heat and a UVB strip ? ...And Coconut fibre for substrate ?

    Anyone with a piccy of their setup ?
    1.0.0 Argentine Tegu
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  6. #6
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    Pikey! My thunder has been stolen! I finally able to repay Angel for all the help she has given me. Pikey if you weren't so awesome....I might be mad at you right now.

    I just used a simple fluorescent bulb for mine. i used coconut husk. I just really soak it so its kind of muddy. I gave him a small heating pad for the winter. Eventhough its still room tempature.....just for nights when its a little colder. Some say that UVB can actually hurt amphibians....idk....but I do know it is not neccessary at all. i didn't read all of what pikey said.... but.... a good healthy frog is as wide as it is long. I'd post pics but i have an old computer. its really simple though. Oh and I also have a bowl of water in there so he can always have fresh water. if you need help finding one let me know....I could point you in the right direction.
    1.0.0 Argentine B&W Tegu
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    Roaches (Dubia & Lateralis)

  7. #7
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    PM Rob (October). He is the bomb when it comes to frogs. He helps me with my dwarf pyxie. I keep mine in coco, too, with a water dish for soaking. I have found (thanks to Rob), that when the temps drop below 80 mine stops eating. He eats crickets and nightcrawlers mostly. I don't do the UVB thing, but I supplement weekly with vitamins and more often with calcium.
    Laura R (FL)
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  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Maryland
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    I've seen Rob's pics of his Cranweli Horned frogs....I can honestly say that they are def the biggest i've ever seen.
    1.0.0 Argentine B&W Tegu
    0.0.2 African Pyxie Frog
    1.0.0 Blood Python
    1.0.0 Albino Burmese Python
    1.0.0 Blue Tongue Skink
    1.0.0 Basilisk
    0.0.1 Cane Toad
    1.0.0 Albino Western Hognose


    Roaches (Dubia & Lateralis)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Hello eveyone...One thing that needs correction.. It is the males that can reach 10 inches. The females are the smaller of these species, which is the oppoisite of many frogs.

    Thank you Laura,, I am glad your little guy is eating...

    Also, some things need to be corrected regarding some of the posted information... First, stay away from goldfish, they are a major parasite carrier, in fact, I stay away from fish as prey all together. Mice should only be offered every once in a while.. Maybe once per month..There is too much fat for a staple. Also, you frog may really start to like them and want nothing else, which will probably mean a shortened life span.

    These frogs are best raised on crickets and night crawlers as a staple,,certain roaches are also fine. A pinkie or 2 per month when they are young is fine.. When they get older 1 mouse every 1-2 months is plenty.

    Coco fiber deep enough so the frog can burry himself and a walter bowl are necessities.. Everything else would be for decoration or to suit the owners taste..

    Temps 83-87 works best. Some natural light, not sun though, from a window is good, however, a low grade uv light works well too. Doesn't need to be uvb, just uv. Also, it is albino horned frogs that should not be exposed to uvb.

    Also, heating pads are ok..However, it should not be put underneath the tank though, on the side is ok. I personally used the zoo med ceramic heat emitter mysef and a 25 watt exoterra day glo sun bulb.

    Rob

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